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The wine racks down in the (thankfully cool)
basement are once again full to max capacity. We're
really not wine hoarders, but there's a certain
satisfaction that comes from every slot (of the 7
dozen or so) holding something delicious for us to sip
at some point in the future.
Following this weekend's road trip to Yakima Valley
and Walla Walla, the "cellar" leans heavily toward
Washington wine selections. I'm not consciously a
Washington-only wine snob, at least not any more
than I just naturally gravitate to local products--wild
salmon, regional cheeses, produce from local farms,
all that good stuff--whenever possible. I know "fresh
and local" certainly doesn't mean the same thing for
a bottle of cabernet as it does for a tomato. But I
guess I'm in that camp that likes, for the most part,
to think globally and eat (and drink) locally as much
as possible.
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On the Road
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Las Vegas
Neither of us ever intended to fall in love. With Las
Vegas that is. My husband and I made a casual trip
down there about 5 years ago with dear friends and
something about the place got under our skin. We
are now—it shocks me to say this—Las Vegas
regulars. Four trips last year. We’ve been in April and
June so far this year. My husband subscribes to
Las
Vegas Advisor newsletter. I have
players-club cards for a dozen casinos and get
invitations to stay for free at Paris. It’s serious.
I’m not the first to think of Las Vegas as Disneyland
for grown-ups. We like Disneyland; we even
vacationed in Disney World (with no kids to take
along as an excuse)—and had a ball. There’s
something to the escapism of a fantasy land
that appeals to us on some level, maybe in response
to the brain fry of our daily grind. Las Vegas is
nothing but escapism, unless you happen to be one
of the half million people who call the city home. I
don’t know how they do it.
While glitz, glam and gambling are still Vegas
hallmarks, food is an ever-growing draw for visitors.
Since so much about this city is exaggerated and
over-the-top, don’t be surprised that the same goes
for some of its culinary palaces. We’ve been
underwhelmed by many of them, including Aureole,
Aqua (now gone) and Alizé. French culinary artillery
has come to town recently; we have yet to try the
restaurants of Alain Ducasse, Guy Savoy or Joël
Robuchon. By far the best of the “big name”
restaurants we’ve been to is Bradley Ogden in
Caesar’s Palace: three visits, each meal a winner. In
December we celebrated Bob’s birthday with dinner
at Okada in the fab new Wynn resort. Out of this
world, worth every pretty penny.
Bob loves Vegas buffets. I'm less a fan though will
say that the Bellagio, Aladdin (soon to be Planet
Hollywood) and Wynn buffets are worth their prices.
One advantage to gambling with a slot card is that
it's fairly easy to get your buffets “comped”. Such
was the case this June at Wynn.
Another favorite meal, I kid you not, is the $4.95
steak dinner at Ellis Island. Nope, that’s not part of
the New York, New York casino complex. Ellis Island
is an independent, local casino one block east of the
strip behind Bally’s. That bargain steak isn’t on the
menu, but it’s always available. You'll get an
admirable baseball cut of sirloin with all the fixings:
salad, bread, vegetables, potato, etc. They brew
their own beer on premises too: quite good and very
cheap. A couple beers and you might be ready for
some raucous karaoke in the bar. I’m proud to say I
haven’t yet succumbed to that temptation.
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Dinner Out
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Licorous
It was one of those nights that made Seattle feel like
a small town. I met up with a couple of girlfriends at
the new Licorous bar/restaurant brought to life by the owners of
the wildly wonderful Lark next door. Every other table
seemed to have a friend or colleague at it. I think a
lot had to do with the fact that Licorous had been
open just a couple of weeks and the foodie/industry
crowd was anxious to check things out.
The menu at Licorous is short and sweet, one side
devoted to cocktails, the other to savory and sweet
dishes. The libations include eight signature drinks
that are refreshingly down-to-earth and devoted to
flavor. Substance trumps trendiness, which is all too
rare in mainstream cocktail culture today. My early
favorites include the 12th Avenue with rhubarb-
infused vodka, Lillet and lime; and the Lark, prosecco
with a splash each of grapefruit juice and Campari.
Each cocktail comes with a suggested optional
pairing, a few bites of something distinctive--such as
frozen foie gras bon bons or chickpeas with harissa
salt--to complement the drink.
Chef/co-owner John Sundstrom has had a string
of successes in recent years, gaining acclaim at the
W Hotel's Earth & Ocean restaurant (he was named
one of Food & Wine magazine's Best New
Chefs during that tenure), then going on to open
Lark which remains a steadfast favorite for much of
Seattle. What's so enchanting about following John's
career is that every step he takes is into new
territory, rather than each new phase simply a
variation on the same theme.
All the items we tasted that evening, including a
nightly special of watermelon topped with basil
sorbet and corn soup with chanterelles, were
outstanding. Flavors are real, unadulterated, nothing
fussy. But with Licorous he's embracing the bar
scene in a new way and with a chef's drive and
passion. Consider this: John is even making a few
versions of his own bitters to use in their cocktails.
It's an example of a new kitchen-meets-bar
wave that's blurring the lines between two
traditionally separate camps of a restaurant. And it
shows John Sundstrom is still very much at the top
of his game.
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Recipe Spotlight
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Rosé Sangria
This sangria is one of the simpler recipes I've come
up with for my Homegrown cookbooks, but for some
reason it remains a particular favorite. In part, the
pitcher of wine and fruit is so pretty with its pink-
blush-orange tones, it just naturally seems to evoke
easy-breezy-lazy summer evenings. And the fleeting
availability of key ingredients make this a recipe that
really celebrates the season in style. Once the
Rainier cherries and tree-ripened peaches are gone,
it's time to put the recipe away until next year.
Though southern French rosés would be good
candidates, I always reach first for a Washington
rosé for this recipe. Chinook winery's cabernet franc rosé is a personal
favorite. We just picked up a few more bottles on our
trip to Eastern Washington this past weekend.
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Datebook
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Consider heading to Anacortes the first
weekend of August for the Anacortes Arts Festival. This will be my first
visit, but the festival.now in its 45th
year.celebrates every type of art, from handmade
fabrics
to live jazz. And literary/culinary art as well, which
explains why I'll be there signing my Salmon cookbook at Watermark
Book Company (612 Commercial Ave, 360-293-4277).
from 1:00 to 3:00 the afternoon of Saturday August
5.
Just a reminder: the second annual Incredible Feast is
around the corner on
August 20, a
farmer-driven event put on
by the Neighborhood Farmers Market Alliance (the
folks behind the University District, West Seattle,
Columbia City and other neighborhood markets in
town). The event will be held at the Phinney
Neighborhood Center, raising funds to help set up the
new farmers market that will be launched there next
year. A couple dozen of Seattle's top chefs are
paired up with local farmers, offering a feast of the
best of summertime produce, cheeses, meats and
other products. Tickets sold out in advance last
year, so don't dilly-dally; they're available online and
at the weekly markets.
One of my favorite annual events is also just around
the corner, the third weekend of August: the
Auction of Washington Wines. This will be the
auction's 19th event, which has grown from a
one-evening auction to three days of activities. The
casual Picnic is Thursday evening, intimate
winemaker dinners in private homes Friday evening,
culminating with the black-tie gala Saturday night.
This year's theme, Life is a Cabaret, will surely make
for some festive regalia. It's a splurge, but always a
wonderful party in celebration of Washington's wine
industry.
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