The aromatic citrus flavor of oranges and subtle anisy crunch of fennel makes for a great start to any meal. Blood oranges are a variety of sweet orange that has reddish tones in the flesh that can range from a smattering of red speckles to a solid ruby red. They are available sporadically, and not all markets carry them. Winter into early spring is generally the best time for finding them. Navel oranges, while less colorful, will provide tasty results as well.

2 blood oranges or navel oranges 1 large fennel bulb 4 green onions, thinly sliced 1/4 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 ounces crabmeat

Cut both ends from one of the oranges, just to the flesh. Set the orange upright on a cutting board and use the knife to cut away the peel and pith, following the curve of the fruit. Try not to cut way too much of the flesh with the peel.

Working over a medium bowl to catch the juice, hold the peeled orange in your hand and slide the knife blade down one side of a section, cutting it form the membrane. Cut down the other side of the same section and let it fall into the bowl. (Pick out and discard any seeds as you go.) Continue for the remaining sections, turning the flaps of the membrane like the pages of a book. Squeeze the juice from the membrane core into the bowl. Repeat with the second orange.

Trim the root end and stalks of the fennel bulb, reserving some of the feathery fronds. Halve the bulb lengthwise and cut out the tough core. Using a mandoline slicer or a large knife, cut the fennel lengthwise into paper-thin slices, and put them in the bowl with the orange segments. Mince enough of the fennel fronds to measure 1 tablespoon, reserving 4 of the remaining fronds for garnish, and add the minced fennel and green onion to the bowl. Drizzle the olive oil and vinegar over the mixture and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Pick over the crabmeat to remove any bits of shell or cartilage. Add the crab to the salad and toss gently to avoid breaking up the orange pieces. Arrange the salad on chilled plates, drizzling the juices from the bottom of the bowl evenly over the salads. Top with the reserved fennel fronds and serve right away.

Makes 2 to 4 servings